Flashing Wingsland R6 Wifi firmware

This guides especially for XZ, a Wingsland user who wants to know the steps I took to flash a faulty firmware chip on a R6 Controller, but this guide may help others too who have a R6 that will not connect to a S6 , even after a reset on back of R6.

Things I used myself to do this:-

 

1 -A CH341a programmer (version I got came with a daughter board to program small smd chips and also a extension with clip on) You can use any programmer that can program the chip below , but the ch341a is what i used.

2 – Getting hold of new flash chip a really good idea which is a MX25L12835F, you can use old chip if you want, but I went for a new one in case it was the chip that is faulty.

3 – Skills to remove a 8 pin surface mount chip carefully from the board, easy way to use a hot air staion but you must protect the tiny compmnets around the chip, by covering them with special tape or they will get blown away.

Failing that you can just carefully use a blob of solder around all 8 pins evenly to remove chip.

Be care with step 3, you can totally wreck the board unless you real careful!!!!

ALSO NOTE+++++ Make sure you take note of what way around the chip is,Pin1 has a round dot on chip. Take a photo if you unsure, this is really important or you will kill the chip!!!!

4 – Once chip is removed although faulty, still make a dump of it if you are using the original chip.

5- The settings I used on a ch341a with this version of the software programmer (which comes with the Wingsland R6.bin in directory already)

6 – Attach your chip to the programmer and then plug it into usb socket and then go to programmer software above use the same settings and open the r6.bin (that I have linked and also in the wingsland download section file from where you saved it after unzipping it.

Then up top of programmer software hit read which will show as empty and then you can write or if you are using the original chip click read and then hit save to save old dump in case you need it and once that done erase chip and then reload the r6.bin into it.

7 – Once flashed solder back on wifi board and make sure you put it back with pin 1 in correct place. If you put it in wrong the chip will die.

Fit your R6 back together and power it back on, once its fully booted then you need to hold in the reset on the back of r6 to reset settings or it will not connect to your S6!

Hitting reset button wipes the old s6 settings and makes it ready to find a new S6.

Question – How do I know whether my R6 is working correctly ?????

When you hit the reset on back the blue led on front right of R6 should flash.

If it does not flash at all , but controller does turn on when you open the arms which is what my first R6 done then it probably means your flash firmware is corrupt like mine was. If the main stm32 firmware on the transmitter is broke, flashing the wifi chip will not cure it. So R6 must power on with green led’s for this flash to work.

Remember skills are needed to do this and if you unsure then take to someone who can remove the chip and put it back after its been flashed. You can easy kill the board if you mess this up!!

Good luck

Graham

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Wingsland S6 Emax 1106 testing

Got hold of some Emax 1106 V1 6000kv motors that had the 9mm prop hole spacing and therefore could fit the S6 props and clamps.

First off I done a amp test with original motors vs the Emax ones.
Wingsland :-

So with the original motors pulled around 16.amps at about 120 watts

Below tested again with same fully charged battery

And Emax 1106 V1 6000kv Motors:-

So pulled around 29.3 amps at about 215 watts!.

So figured this was going to be far worse flight time with these.

Anyways,  tried a flight and took a fully charged battery and took off and the S6 went from about 100% battery to 70% after 18 seconds.

Then at around 60% it flipped over in the air and fell into the grass and I could smell burning!

I expected the ESC had fried, but actually looks like the 2 front motor plugs had melted on the esc board.

This is prob due to the original wingsland wires that I soldered the emax ones to are a lot thiner and could not handle the amp draw.

Soldering the emax wires direct to the esc board is a option , but I doubt it going to improve flight time over the original S6 ones.

So would class this experiment as a total fail and as expected, and only tried as someone once told me you get better flight time with the 6000kv emax motors on a S6. That is definitely not true.

There are some 3800kv 1106 motors around, but to use them cant use the S6 props and clamps and would not be as foldable.

So we are pretty much stuck with the S6 original motors here……

Oh well need to re install the original motors and fix the plugs and hopefully esc is still okay 😉

update….

Turns out this did kill the esc board, so either a faulty mosfet or one of the motor control chips….

Have fun!

 

 

 

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More Wingsland S6 tests

Just a quick post to say I shall have some more tests on getting better flight time soon.
I have some different props and motors on the way to see if there is anything else that can be
done to better current flight times.
Thus far for those that are following , best mods I found so far are upgrading the cells in the S6 battery packs.
The simtoo XT175 props give better flight time, but they break apart mid air a lot of the time and dont fit well , which may be part of way they snap in flight and also the weight of the S6 and speed the blades spin at exceeds the design of the Simtoo props.

Stay tuned 😉

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Wingsland S6 still worth buying in 2020?

Judging from the amount of messages from my blog I still get about the S6, it seems a lot still have them or buy them. Even now after 3 years since it was launched and abandoned by Wingsland themselves.

Even now the Wingsland apps have all been removed from the Apple store and so you need a Android phone now (unless you already have the ios app on your iphone), and its still available to buy new on banggood.

Strange its still selling enough to justify them still being made over in China.

Why I ask myself is why do I still get so many messages about this 3 year old quadcopter?

More so as most reviews of it were so bad when it came out.

I guess in part it seems great value for what you get. A great looking quad and with a 4k camera, and its very small when folded up.

But as always the 5-6 min flight time (if you get a good battery with it) and only then if you fly in warm weather and light wind. Flying this in cold weather you be lucky to get 2/3 mins.

Would I buy one in 2020?? Prob not as you can no longer get the R6 controller as they not made anymore and flying with a phone is totally crap in my opinion and also the apps have been dropped from Apple store. And also for the price of a S6 and a controller (if you can get one) is gettting close to a second user price of a DJI Spark, which although only takes 1080p video, is if I am being honest still a better bet, as you get a quad with a 2 axis gimbal around 12 mins flight time and is rock stable inside and outside and when arms of S6 are unfolded is about same width size (although a lot deeper in size)

Also if you have the budget there is also the DJI mavic mini, but thats a big jump in price of course.

But I will still use mine from time to time and the S6 has been a intresting project to me and got a lot of fun and hair pulling at same time.

I am hoping one day battery technology actually changes and makes possible a better density that can fit inside s6 and give something like 10 mins flying time.

But lipo chemisty seems to be stuck at what it is now for years, so dont hold your breath 😉

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Wingsland S6 1600mah battery

Got around to again testing a Turnigy 2s 1600mah in the s6 again.

Just curious on this s6 that has bits removed and holes cut into it to remove weight what kind of light time I would get this time with a battery I used before on a stock S6 (apart from external wires for battery).

As you can see you have to have a modded S6 to do this as it needs external wires to battery.

I was suprised that with bits removed to lighter the S6, I got almost the same flight time as before. So removing a bit of weight dont seem to make much difference as this latest try with this 1600mah still got the same 7 mins in air time as before.

Video at bottom of page for those that want to watch a boring flight 😉

So really removing weight be cutting holes and changing gps antenna to a small lighter type really dont make much difference.

Pics below.

But conclusion is still the same, best way to get a bit better flight time of around 7 mins in the air is to replace the wingsland internal cells with Hyperion G7 1400mah LiHv cells.

But other users who messaged me saying these are very hard to find thesedays, so have to look out for something else that fits next.

Best way I feel is finding some lower kv motors that fit and bigger props, but that may not be ideal for the way the firmware is setup and also not really economical to do at present.

Or better still someone with 3d design and printing skills to make a clone of the simtoo fairy xt175 props that fit the stock motor clamps.

Video below of flight with the Turnigy 2s 1600mah.

Flight was done in indoor mode and so used the downward infrared sensor and optical flow sensor. These only enabled indoors when S6 does not get any gps sats and then starts in indoor mode with sensors. They dont hold that well as you can see, with a lot of up and down and drifting.
These downward sensors ONLY work when inside! When outside and S6 picks up gps sats, the sensors are turned off.
Also when in “indoors mode” You dont have much control, like big movements needed to move quad around and hence better to only use in a big room with high ceilings.

Note you have to click on pop out window (box top right of video) to view full screen.

 

 

 

 

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